Chester City Walls
Nigel Clarkson October 10th 2024
My Walk Along Chester's Historic City Walls: A Journey Through Time
Have you ever wanted to take a walk that transports you through 2,000 years of history, all while enjoying incredible views of a beautiful city? That’s exactly what I did on my recent walk along Chester's famous city walls.
Chester, a charming and historic city in the northwest of England, boasts the only complete circuit of ancient defensive walls still standing in Britain. Walking these walls was not just a casual stroll—it was a full-blown adventure into the past!
So, if you're planning a trip to Chester or simply curious about what this city has to offer, join me as I share the highlights of my walk, peppered with fascinating historical facts and practical tips. Whether you're a history buff or a casual visitor, this guide will help you make the most of your time on Chester's city walls.
A Walk Through History
Walking Chester’s city walls is like stepping into a time machine. Parts of these walls date back almost 2,000 years to the Roman era!
They started off as simple earth and timber fortifications but were later reconstructed in sandstone, a material much better suited to withstand attacks. These walls were expanded and fortified over centuries, with the Anglo-Saxons, Normans, and even the citizens during the English Civil War all contributing to their development.
Did You Know?
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The walls were fortified again just before the English Civil War, although they sustained damage during the conflict.
As I walked along the walls, I could feel the layers of history beneath my feet, from the Roman Empire to medieval times and beyond. Imagine all the battles, sieges, and events these stones have witnessed!
Starting at Watergate: The Best Spot to Begin
I decided to start my walk at Watergate, one of the most prominent entry points to the walls. Though today it seems quite far from any body of water, centuries ago, the River Dee ran much closer to the city.
Ships would dock near the walls, and Watergate was the main gateway for unloading cargo. A Water Tower was even built in 1322 to defend Chester's bustling port. It’s incredible how much the landscape has changed over time!
Why Is It Called Watergate When There’s No Water Nearby?
Great question! The River Dee used to be much larger, and ships would unload their cargo right next to the city walls.
Over time, the river silted up, and Chester lost its status as a major seaport. Now, instead of a busy harbour, you’ll find a peaceful bowling green where sailors once toiled.
From Watergate, the views are fantastic.
I could see an impressive old building that used to be Chester’s infirmary, now a picturesque part of the city’s landscape. It's surreal to think about how this area transformed from a bustling harbour to a serene green space over the centuries.
Exploring Chester Racecourse: From Roman Wharf to Modern Races
A short walk from Watergate brought me to Chester Racecourse, one of the most famous landmarks in the city.
And here's some fun facts for you:
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It’s the oldest racecourse still in operation in England!
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Most racecourses are oval, but Chester’s track is circular, and the horses run clockwise, which is rare as most races are run in a counter-clockwise direction.
However, what makes the racecourse even more fascinating is that it was once a Roman harbour! You can still spot some remains of the original Roman wharf along the walls, which is mind-blowing when you think about the sheer passage of time.
King Charles Tower: A Tower With a Tragic Views
Continuing my walk, I reached King Charles Tower, one of the most significant and imposing towers along the city walls. The story goes that King Charles I watched his army lose at the Battle of Rowton Moor from this very tower.
While it’s more likely that the battle referenced took place elsewhere, this tower is still steeped in history. The views from here are spectacular, and it’s worth a stop to reflect on how much has unfolded within these very walls.
Chester Cathedral: A Testament to Timeless Architecture
No walk along Chester's walls is complete without taking in the views of Chester Cathedral. While I didn’t step inside this time, the cathedral’s history is undeniably rich.
Its origins go back to the 10th century, and over the years, it has been rebuilt, modified, and expanded, resulting in a breathtaking blend of architectural styles. From my vantage point on the walls, I admired the intricate stonework and imposing spires that have witnessed centuries of history..
Accessibility and Conservation: Modern Efforts for Ancient Walls
Walking Chester's city walls today is a fantastic way to experience the city, but it's not without its challenges. The walls are open year-round, free to access, and well-maintained by the city council, but some sections are steep and have steps that can be tough on tired legs.
Thankfully, improvements have been made to increase accessibility. Some access points now include ramps, and assistance rails have been added to areas like Watergate Bridge for those with reduced mobility.
However, there are sections—such as between Morgan's Mount and Northgate Bridge—that have been closed for repairs due to structural concerns. While this can be a minor inconvenience, it’s a crucial step in preserving these historical walls for future generations.
Accessibility Tips:
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The main entrances to the walls are Northgate, Eastgate, Bridgegate, and Watergate.
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Recent improvements like assistance rails and ramps help make certain areas more accessible, but there are still steep sections and steps.
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Comfortable shoes are a must for this walk!
The Walls Today: More Than Just History
While the Chester city walls are steeped in history, they also offer so much more. Walking the full circuit—about 2 miles (3.2 km)—gives you spectacular views of Chester’s other attractions, such as the cathedral, castle, and even the River Dee.
They are a haven for tourists and locals alike, serving as a public amenity and a peaceful spot for leisurely walks.
Fun Fact:
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The walls are Grade I listed, and almost every section is a Scheduled Monument, underscoring their historical importance.
Parking and Accommodations
Several car parks are available around the city for visitors to use as they explore the Walls. It also has several nearby hotels and restaurants that offer different kinds of dining and lodging services.
Tip: There are several City Walls parking points throughout the city.
Conclusion: A Walk Worth Taking
If you ever find yourself in Chester, walking along the city walls is an absolute must-do.
Whether you’re captivated by the thought of walking in the footsteps of Romans or just want to take in the city's beautiful scenery, Chester's city walls offer something for everyone. The history is fascinating, the views are stunning, and the experience is free!
Tip: Be sure to wear comfortable shoes, as some parts of the wall have steep steps. And don’t forget to take plenty of photos—Chester’s history is best captured with both your camera and your heart.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Are the Main Entrances to Chester’s City Walls?
The main entrances are Northgate, Eastgate, Bridgegate, and Watergate. These were originally fortified gateways, though they have since been rebuilt to accommodate modern traffic. Other access points, including some with ramps, make the walls easier to explore for everyone!
How far is it to walk around Chester City Walls?
The full circuit of the walls is approximately 2 miles (3.2 km), and you can easily walk it in a couple of hours while taking in the sights.
Is the Walk Along Chester’s City Walls Free?
Yes! Access to Chester’s city walls is free and available all year round. It's a wonderful way to explore the city at no cost.
Can You See Chester Cathedral From the Walls?
Absolutely! Walking the walls gives you amazing views of Chester Cathedral, as well as other landmarks like the racecourse and the River Dee.
Best place to park to walk the Chester City Walls?
A good place to park is the Chester Racecourse car park the Roodee. It's conveniently located and offers easy access to the walls. From there, you can choose any direction to start your walk.
Remember, the city can be busy, especially on race days, so it's wise to arrive early or check for alternative parking spots just in case.
What Should I Wear for the Walk?
Wear comfortable shoes, as some parts of the walls are steep and there are steps to navigate. If you're visiting in cooler months, be sure to bring a warm jacket as it can get windy on top of the walls.
Whether you're a history lover or just someone looking for a scenic walk, Chester's city walls are a true gem—don’t miss out!